If I had not had the privilege to live and travel in Thailand and if I was maybe a younger more budget traveler, then Bali may have impressed me, but, at this stage of my life I was disappointed with the experience.
I think most people rave about their Bali experience for a few reasons:
-people are friendly
-food, accommodation, travel are cheaper than most other countries in S E Asia and foreign currency stretches a really long way so
-great value for money
-nice beaches and plenty of beach clubs to choose from
All of this is true- but what about those seasoned travelers who are looking for more than just a good time at a beach?
For tourists looking to explore the culture and natural wonders of Bali, its an excruciating experience trying to navigate the poor transportation of the city.
Bali has great potential but its infrastructure lets it down in a big way. I wonder where all the tourist taxes we are charged to enter the country and at every individual location visited are going??
I will go ahead and review the places we visited honestly as opposed to what is shown on social media, so if you do go you do so with open eyes!
Note: Instead of constantly moving hotels, we opted to stay in a central location and travel to the closest tourist destinations as day trips. Local drivers are plentiful and its best to get a car for the day- very reasonable prices for the comfort of door to door service.
From Ubud
Our first base was Ubud from where we visited the following locations:
Day 1- Ulun Danu Bretan, Pura Taman Ayun, Tanah Lot
Ulun Danu Bretan
A drive of about 1.5 hrs from Ubud ( depending on traffic) along a mountainous road, the temple complex of Ulun Danu Bretan is located right next to a huge lake. The area is scenic and peaceful and a stroll around the complex scattered with traditional Balinese architecture is nice. Entrance into the actual temple is restricted to locals only.
A nice location but, for me, not worth the long drive to get there.
Pura Taman Ayun
About an hour away, our next stop was the World Heritage Site, Pura Taman Ayun - a compound of Balinese temples and gardens. Literally meaning "beautiful garden", it is the 2nd largest temple complex in Bali. Its several water features are both for aesthetic value as well as being an integral part of the local irrigation system.
The complex is comprised of 3 sections: outer courtyard, middle courtyard and inner sanctuary. The outer two areas are open to visitors but the inner courtyard is reserved for worshippers only-you do however get a good view as you walk around.
It was a lovely place to visit and surprisingly empty- probably as no social media influencer had posted from it on Instagram yet!!
Tanah Lot
Tanah Lot was on the top of my list of places to visit but sadly it was a big letdown. My fault really for visiting too late- should have gone years earlier before it became popular.
The location was still stunning with the backdrop of the sea but so many people( most just interested in taking selfies), trash, wires and pipes ruined the atmosphere. Even if I overlooked the crowds, since I was one of them, I couldn't excuse the blatant ripping off of tourists.
When we visited, the island temple was under maintenance so no entry allowed( which should be updated online ) but what was worse was a group of 'caretakers' blocking people going up the staircase on the outside. The cost of accessing said stairs was a cleansing ritual (washing hands under a tap and getting a flower tucked behind ones ear) before being asked to 'donate' money for the process.
Still may have been worth the ripoff until we realized that the staircase only went up a few steps before being barricaded for reconstruction work. We could actually see the old men laughing at how they were fooling the tourists and the whole experience left me feeling very disappointed and angry.
Aside for the main temple, there is also a lovely small temple located on an outcrop of land (photo 1) which does not allow visitors- probably what will save it from the fate the big temple.
We walked around the whole area but there was nothing else to really see so a quick bathroom break before our long drive back to the hotel.
Day 2- Tukud Cepung Waterfall, Tirtaa Gangga, Rice Terraces, Pura Lempuyang
Tukud Cepung Waterfall
Being a huge fan of waterfalls, I was hard pressed to choose just one to visit in Bali as there are so many! Tukud Cepung seemed the best option and we got an early start to the day as we headed to the falls.
About an hours drive from Ubud, this waterfall is truly beautiful. If you are lucky and you catch the sun rays coming through the cave, it even looks magical.
From the parking lot its a short walk to get a ticket, which you then pay for at a second stop further along. The walk to the falls is fairly easy, if you are relatively fit, but the steps which lead you down are uneven in height and can be challenging if you have knee issues. There is a railing to hold onto in most places, but not everywhere.
The falls are a huge attraction so get there early to avoid huge crowds and traffic jams on the pathway.
In case you don't have a swimsuit or aqua shoes there is an enterprising fellow, half way down outside the restaurant, who sells them. I highly recommend having at least the footwear as the pebbles and rocks underfoot are sharp and painful- yes you will be walking through water at knee to thigh level and will also likely get wet from the spray of the falls!
Once you are at water level, you can go left for the cave falls or right for the open air falls. Not far from each other at all so do one, then cross over to the other.
The water was cool and I was soaked to the skin but I couldn't have been happier, especially when the suns rays appeared through the cave opening- absolutely glorious!
Tirtaa Gangga
Our next stop was Tirtaa Gangaa, named after the Ganga river in India. It is a former royal palace in Bali known for its temple, tiered fountains and bathing pools. The bathing pools, which fill up from streams in the northwest, are accessible to all guests at a price and are often a relief from the heat of Bali.
As like most other tourist places, this too is a mecca for instagrammers, and the inevitable hordes taking selfies was not surprising. The stepping stones across the koi pond are the "best" location for the "perfect" photo and are always crowded. We, however, went a little off center to where the crowds are far less for a much more peaceful experience! You could also dip in the pool for some quiet time (swimwear required).
We got some photos, did a walk around and were done in less than an hour.
Rice Terraces-Maha Gangga
Our driver was keen to show us a rice terrace nearby and, as we were ahead of schedule, we agreed. Turned out to be a typical tourist setup and we did the walking loop just because we has time to kill. An average and avoidable stop- there are much nicer, less artificial places to see the rice terraces of Bali.
Pura Lempuyang
Pura Lempuyang or The Gates of Heaven has been brilliantly marketed by social media and made it a must see for most tourists. Everyone comes here to try recreate the most famous photograph of Bali taken in front of the gates, waiting anywhere between 3-6 hours for the chance. A smoke and mirrors photo which isn't even real- the reflection created is done so using a mirror- there is no water body there. The sunrise background and a view of the volcanic mountain, too, is unpredictable and depends on the weather.
Being typical tourists we also wanted to see this wonder and opted to go up in the afternoon to avoid the mad morning rush. As it's located on top of a mountain and the roads are very narrow, cars are allowed only up to a point. At the parking you buy a ticket, get a compulsory sarong and board a mini van which takes you up further. The ride up is quite steep and a bit scary when two vans need to cross but the drivers have it down to a fine art. You get dropped off at the upper stop from where its a short, but steep, climb to the temple and gates.
As you enter, the gates are to your left and on the right are three sets of identical stairs going up to the temple.
The gates were lovely but the same as many similar gates in the city- only the backdrop was different. You could not get up close because of the constant stream of photographs being taken.
For me the gates didn't impress as much as the well oiled system for the photographs.
On either side ahead of the gates are waiting areas for people in queue for their photos. Slots are allotted as per your entrance ticket and the wait time anywhere between 2-6 hours. An efficient and robotic photographer continuously clicks away while an assistant regulates the queue.
You are allowed 5 "poses" before you must move on and it's highly entertaining watching all the silliness of posing- people were even practicing on the side!
Our ticket number meant a 3-4 hour wait for the photo and we were not in the least interested in waiting but I thought we could look around the temple since we'd come all the way but guess what- not open to public. So we took some pics by the stairs and were about to walk down when our driver came up with a gem.
He took us behind the gates at a lower level where an enterprising someone has set up his own "crew" to take pictures. A very nominal cost with a wait of 5-10 mins- we were sold!
The pictures came out great- not the same, but close enough- and we didn't have to wait!
I'll say this- unless you are there only for that iconic shot, its not worth the distance and time. There is nothing much else to see and you can find similar gates all over Bali.
Back down and done for the day we returned to the hotel- a really long drive....
Day 3- Mount Batur Sunrise Jeep Tour with Black Lava and Hot Springs
This was a fun day for sure! It's best to go with a tour company and we used D Adventures.
A super early pick up from Ubud at 3 am followed by an hour's drive to the meeting point at Kintamani was the first leg. Here we swapped over to open top jeeps for the drive up to the top of the mountain and even rented warm jackets and blankets as it was really cold.
The jeep went up, what seemed like in the dark, a very steep and perilous dirt track to reach a point you assume is the mountain top and parked alongside another 50-60 jeeps across the area.
Then began the wait in the cold of almost two hours- a price you pay to get a good vantage point. There is a tiny open air kitchen which dishes out a very simple breakfast and hot beverages, which is a part of the trip, and you pretty much eat it before sunrise to just stay warm and do something! There is also a toilet here but I can't comment to its condition as I did not venture near it- reasonable to assume it would be rustic and best avoided unless desperate!
You could also join the hikers for a short but steep walk up to the highest point but I was happy to stay where I was!
After the initial enthusiastic photo taking and clambering all over the jeep, we cuddled up in the warm blankets we'd thankfully hired and just enjoyed the twinkling stars overhead as we waited for what we hoped would be a spectacular sunrise.
Lady luck was with us and it didn't disappoint. Slowly the dance of the sunrise began and what a stunning performance it was! The photos don't come close to doing it justice and as I sat watching the spectacle, I felt humbled by nature's beauty and saddened by how we humans are destroying it.
As soon as the sun had risen, it was off to the black lava rocks about 30 mins drive away.
Mount Batur is one of two active volcanos in Bali, the other being Mount Agung. Both are part of the Pacific Ring of Fire, an area known for high volcanic and seismic activity with the mountain itself being formed by the accumulation of volcanic material over millions of years. The last big eruption was in 1963 and caused significant damage and claimed many lives.
Even we experienced a scary earthquake while in Bali but the locals brushed it off as normal as it happens so often.
The lave rocks are exactly that- a vast area of grey/ black lava from eruptions of the past. We walked around a portion of this area, acutely aware how horrific the events creating this must have been.
The last stop of the day was at the Batur Natural Hot Springs. There are several options for hot springs in this area but this was the one included in our package.
Located at the foot of Mount Batur, between the mountain and the Batur Lake, it's a picturesque location to relax and soak in the healing waters of the natural hot springs. There are changing rooms and showers and even towels for rent. There is a small restaurant too.
There are several levels of pools to soak in but costumes are essential. We didn't have ours so we opted for a relaxing foot massage at one of the cabanas. Turns out flies are as attracted to the springs as humans are so the massage, and coffee after, were not very relaxing and we headed back soon after.
If you do go, I'd suggest looking into the more upscale place next door for a less crowded and more refined experience.
You can visit the springs by yourself without a tour and make a relaxing day of it. Pricing depends on which one you go to.
PS. Did not take photos as wanted to respect the privacy of the bathers.
We headed back to our hotel soon after and reached in time for lunch.
Free in the afternoon, we booked a tunnel tubing experience near the hotel which turned out to be very average, especially for the price. If you have very young children and need an activity this might work, as it's only waist deep water and not too long, but for us it was a flop. The tunnels themselves are ok and even interesting knowing they were used as hiding places for the invading Japanese but to make an otherwise dull float "interesting", the guides end up making an awful ruckus with juvenile jokes and forced turbulence- I'd rather just float along in peace and quiet. Total duration on the water not more than 20 mins.
There are rudimentary lockers and showers for guest use but we just wanted to get back to the hotel and wash off the unpleasant smelling water so got our packed lunch and headed back.
Day 4- Swing
A relaxed day as my husband had a conference call so kept it simple with lunch and a swing experience.
We hadn't had any good restaurant experiences till now and just wanted a nice location with decent food.
Not far from the hotel was Tis Cafe and we got an Uber to go there for lunch- there are several dining options around this area so you are spoilt for choice.
Location and service were lovely and overlooking the rice terraces with a cold beer was the most relaxing feeling.
There is a day use pool to for those interested but what caught my interest was the swing, and being a big fan of all things swing, I had to have a go!
Rented the customary flowing dress, squished my melon shape into the grape sized dress and managed to get my desired photo, laughing at myself the whole time!!! What a fun experience and definitely one I'll remember!!
Ps. Did leave a comment to have dresses for normal humans too!!
While my husband went back to the hotel to do some work, I spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the amazing handicrafts stores and workshops in Ubud, chatting with the craftsmen and picking up some bit and pieces for home. Amazing variety at unbelievable prices- if I ever came back to Bali, this would be top on my list of things to do.
Kuta
After 4 days in Ubud, we moved for a night to Kuta so we could do the Uluwatu Temple and Kecak Dance from there as it was closer.
Uluwatu is perched on a hilltop with the ocean beyond and is one of the best locations to watch the traditional Kecak dance at sunset.
I'd booked directly with the Temple site for tickets which included 6 hours of driver and car usage, temple tickets and the famed Kecak dance.
The show started at 5:45pm and we were instructed to be there half an hour early so, accounting for traffic, we were picked up from the hotel by 3pm. Despite moderate traffic we reached by 4:30pm and our driver got us the tickets to enter. Thinking we had more than enough time to see the temple and then head to the show, we walked to the ticketing zone where we were shocked to see a queue already of at least a hundred people. As it was free seating inside, we got in line to enter and at least grab some sort of decent seat.
Thank goodness we had pre booked tickets as our line moved faster and we got in in time to find seats right at the top of the arena. Best decision ever. Not only did we have the retaining wall to lean against, but when the show started we had a birds eye view which was perfect. Also we were the only ones who could stand up and stretch our legs at anytime which really was needed!
Seat acquired, we were sat in an open air arena with the afternoon sun scorching down on us, awaiting showtime. It's a miracle no one fainted and I'd never been happier to have my cap and water bottle in my bag. With nothing to do except curse the heat for the next hour or more, I sent my husband to go take a look at the temple.
The temple was up another hill and was apparently nice enough but as per my very hot and sweaty husband, I hadn't missed much.
The rock hard seats were by now full to capacity with about 1400 people sweltering in the heat praying for sunset and relief - why the custodians can't provide some sort of roof for the place and some simple cushions to sit on is beyond understanding.
Finally the heavens above took pity and the sun started setting and the evening got cooler and more bearable- enough to finally appreciate the beautiful location we were at before the dance began.
The performance itself was a mesmerizing depiction of the story of the Ramayana- a truly worthwhile and unique experience and we loved it.
After the hour long performance, we managed to squeeze along with the exiting hordes while avoiding the klepto monkeys to reach our driver. All plans of dinner on the way back were abandoned and we decided to head back to the hotel grabbing take away enroute.
Rude awakening- the traffic was so horrific all the way that although we managed to get some burgers, we were way over our 6 hour limit and had to pay extra for the car. Luckily we had anticipated this possibility so had cash handy but we were so done with being stuck in traffic and were really looking forward to getting away to the islands the next day.
Nusa Penida
Nusa Penida is an island in the southeast of Bali and is accessible only by boat. I had organized with a tour operator for the entire trip beforehand and we were collected from our hotel early morning and taken to Sanur port. There are options of ports depending on where you want to go.
Despite being reassured we would have help with our luggage at all stages, we decided to deposit our larger suitcases at the booking office. Thank goodness for that decision- right from the short walk to the main docks to disembarking on the island there was no-one to help and we saw so many people struggling to lift and pull large suitcases along.
The ferry ride across was pleasant enough and I was super excited to explore Penida.
Then the inevitable letdown of arrival at Nusa Penida. We disembarked and reunited with our small luggage then began the walk to the exit. Unlike the nice port at Sanur, the port here was almost non existent. Hot, sandy and very crowded we thankfully found our driver easily who told us to follow him to the car. At the exit we were asked to pay an unexpected Island Tax but again thankfully we had cash and did it easily before the walk through narrow alleys over sand and trash for about 15 mins to get to the car. No help was offered with our bags at all and we saw so many people struggling in the sand with their luggage. Eventually, hot, dirty and grumpy we reached the car which was, off course, awful and the driver not much better but we had no options and just wanted to get to the hotel.
I had been warned that the road to the hotel was bad but I didn't realize how bad. Half an hour of a two lane road and fifteen minutes of bumping and shaking along a single track dirt road and we were finally at our destination. After so much disappointment I really hoped the hotel was as lovely as it had seemed online- and thankfully it was! Stunning location and lovely rooms- finally life was good @Pramana Natura.
Too early to check in, we had breakfast and planned the rest of the day starting with a change of transport before we were kindly assigned our stunning room. Built on a steep slope, there are buggy's available as transport just a call away. I'd stay Pramana Natura any day despite the difficult access because, once you are there, its paradise!
Just for some orientation, Nusa Penida is loosely divided into the East and the West with different natural wonders to see either side. Both can be done in a day trip from Bali but then you'd spend most of your time in a car with only photo stops at the actual locations. As I wanted this to be a more relaxed break, we were staying two nights and doing each direction on a different day. Even then we found it exhausting being in the car as the distances are long and the roads narrow and often just rocky tracks. A lot of the routes are also mountainous and curvy so would be difficult for those with motion sickness.
On the East side we saw: Diamond Beach, Atuh Beach, 1000 Islands Viewpoint and the Treehouse
I must clarify that when I say beach we are not at sea level- we are on top of a mountain looking down at the beach. There are stairs going down with ropes to hold on to but it's often slippery even when sunny. It is a very difficult descent and as tiring coming back up. We did see several bravehearts doing the hike but most people( like us!) were happy to just go down a few steps, admire the magnificent view, take some photos and get back up.
Notes:
-Diamond Beach and Atuh Beach are accessed from a common point- stairs going left head to Atuh while the right goes to Diamond.
-You can swim at Atuh but Diamond is not a swimming beach. Neither has any facilities so carry everything you need with you.
The Treehouse, a short drive away, was visited by my husband accompanied by our driver while I nursed my old knees at the Thousand Islands Viewpoint. His take- scenic but a very challenging trek, even for him who runs marathons. Maybe if you take a longer time and pace yourself it's easier but, when you are on the clock, time is not a luxury you enjoy.
I did see some nice accommodation near the Treehouse area which might be something worth looking into in case you want to spend the night at this location.
My honest review is that the views were stunning- simply amazing everywhere, which made the long drive to get there bearable, but I wonder where the "Island Tax" is going as the roads are a mess. For an island which hopes to position itself as the Venice of the East there is a loooong way to go and much infrastructure to be created.
Diamond Beach
Atuh Beach
1000 Islands Viewpoint
Treehouse
(can only see the tops from my position way above!)
On the way back we stopped at one of the many beach clubs closer to the port for a well deserved sunset dinner, and although the place was average, the sunset was superb!
The West Side was on the agenda for day 2 : Kelingking Beach, Broken Beach, Angel Billabong, Crystal Beach
Another long drive along average to poor roads to get to some thankfully stunning locations.
Kelingking Beach
Again not at sea level but viewed from above, Kelingking beach offers unparalleled views from everywhere. There are steps going down to the beach here too but please only attempt the climb if you are good with a hot and challenging hike otherwise, like most others, enjoy the near perfect views from above!
Half an hour drive from here were our next 2 destinations which happen to be next to each other.
Broken Beach and Angel Billabong
You can walk a circuitous route to visit both these locations in one go and the walking is not very difficult. There are slopes and stairs but nothing very taxing and you can always rest if you get tired.
Broken beach is a beautifully scenic coastal cove with a natural arch formation. Crystal clear waters flow through this break to and from the ocean and make this one of the most popular places to visit on Nusa Penida. Definitely crowded but with a little walking you can find some spots of relative quiet to marvel at mother nature.
It is generally very hot and dusty with little to no shade so come prepared!
If you walk around and over the arch you will eventually get to Angel Billabong.
The word billabong comes from the Wiradjuri word 'bilabang' and it translates to 'lake', and
because of its pristine almost angelic beauty it is referred to as Angel Billabong.
It is basically a natural pool in the ocean with crystal clear waters. It is not, however, a pool you should swim in but rather just admire from the edge.
Hot and hungry after a day exploring and not having yet entered the ocean, we headed to the famed Crystal Beach for a dip and a bite.
BIG BIG MISTAKE. DO NOT GO THERE.
As crowded as a Coldplay concert, sea full of boats with a thick smell of kerosene in the air and strong currents - overall the worst beach I've been to anywhere. We hightailed it out of there so fast even the driver was amused!
Having had enough, we headed back to our tranquil hotel to get a massage and have a beautiful dinner overlooking the sea- dip in the ocean would just have to wait.
The next day it was a choppy ferry back to Bali for our last few days at Nusa Dua.
Nusa Dua
We were at Nusa Dua primarily for a conference my husband had to attend.
Nusa Dua is a purpose built high end tourist area targeting upmarket travelers. All along the waterfront are hotels and luxury villas and it feels almost like an enclosed mini town. Wide well maintained roads, very little traffic, pristine beaches, soft white sand and shallow waters to swim in, it was a perfect location to recover from the bustle of our travels thus far.
Great walking/ cycling paths, a central space with bars, restaurants and shopping, water sports and some cultural shows, Nusa Dua was a place to just relax and unwind.
I spent my days walking, cycling and just generally exploring the area with a day or two of beach relaxation thrown in.
However user friendly though, Nusa Dua is no indication of what Bali is. There is little character to the area and it lacks atmosphere- you could be at any beach location in any part of the world.
Its great for a short visit to rest and recuperate but I could imaging getting bored very quickly.
In my ideal world, Bali would have the infrastructure of Nusa Dua and the soul of its other cities but until then this happens we tourists have to take the mixed bag that is present.
For me it had been a long awaited and much anticipated trip but unfortunately it didn't live up to my expectations. Not sure if I'd visit again as there are so many places on my bucket list, but never say never- if things change I'm happy to give Bali another go!
Comments