Honest confession- this trip was a variation of my dream plan for visiting the Rockies. The dream was to journey on the Rocky Mountaineer Train, touted as one of the most beautiful train journeys anywhere, but unfortunately we did not win the lottery( alas!) and thus this option was WAY out of budget!
The plan I came up with, however, was pretty darn fantastic too- not the cheapest either, but absolutely amazing.
Our journey started at Toronto and it was a four and a half hour flight to get to Calgary- the nearest airport to Banff National Park.
From the airport we took a pre booked "Pursuit" bus to Canmore- a town about 30 mins from Banff and our base for this trip. Although it would have been more convenient to stay in Banff itself as most tours start there, it was high season and accommodation was ridiculously expensive.
Canmore was more affordable and the town looked super quaint and not as crowded- it was also easy to get to Banff using the regional and local busses which were quite cheap and convenient.
We stayed at a few different inns/ motels in Canmore due to availability issues.
We started at the Lady Macdonald Country Inn which is a lovely quaint BNB with an amazing cozy feel to it. Great hospitality, comfy rooms and lovely views of the 3 Sisters mountains! Probably my favorite stay in Canmore!
We were joined by the kids after a few days so moved to a larger place( also cheaper!) called the Canmore Rocky Mountain Inn. Again a very nice place built to feel like a lodge and again close enough to the bus stop.
The last place we stayed at was the Basecamp Lodge in Canmore. Again lovely large rooms and great common space with a small kitchenette for guest use- they have larger family units next to the main building but we chose a family suite within the central hub.
All the hotels were lovely and each offered something different and Id stay at any one of them again.
As for getting around, Canmore is not a huge town and, if you like walking, its great to explore on foot but if walking is not your thing the local busses within the town are free to use.
Our days were planned to ensure we saw and experienced as much as we could, in the time that we had, with the availability of the activity and this was like putting together a very complex jigsaw puzzle and I was so glad I'd started planning months in advance.
Day 1
The Sunrise over Moraine Lake was the only "must do" on my list and it requires booking a tour as private vehicles are not allowed up. Most pick ups for this tour start in Banff but I found one which not only did Canmore pick ups but was also very highly rated. It meant a super early start but I was determined!
Moraine Lake Sunrise Shuttle picked a few of us up from Canmore at 3am(phew!) but no one complained as we were all so excited! After a quick Banff pick up we headed up to Moraine Lake.
After about an hour and a half we were at our destination. The parking lot was not remotely scenic and I hoped this wasn't going to be a disappointing trip. Its important to mention that at this time the only onsite coffee shop is firmly shut and if you need to use the toilet its off to the horrible outdoor "toilets" aka enclosed hole in the ground. It's a case of when you gotta go you gotta go but honestly it was awful- be warned. It was freezing this early in the day even though we were all bundled up in layers and this is where the tour earned its 6 star rating.
Not only does the van remain in the parking lot throughout your approximately 2 hours there in case you want to get back in and warm up, but they also thoughtfully provide headlamps, blankets and hot beverages for a more comfortable visit.
The best place to see the sunrise, we were told, was at the top of what is known as the "Rockpile"- literally a hill of boulders. Although the sunset can be seen from ground level too, if you are ok with a bit of a climb up then please do go up.
Headlamps on we trudged up with our blankets to find a good spot to sit and wait for the sunrise.
Fingers crossed we waited praying for the clouds to clear so we would be lucky enough to see the famed "fire" on the mountain tops but after half an hour or so the clouds remained unmoved. Very disappointed I wanted to go back down but my husband suggested we had time so why not wait a bit longer.
And then the miracle happened- the clouds cleared and the sun began its dazzling display of art. I cannot describe how beautiful it was- I could have sat there endlessly just staring at the ever changing canvas of sheer beauty. Photos don't do it justice but they do come close- please judge for yourself!
Simply stunning!
We took a few minutes to walk to the other side of the rockpile as well for a different view- most neglect this but it too is rather pretty!
After spending most of our 2 hours atop the rockpile, we headed down for a quick walk next to the lake to enjoy the views from a different perspective- such a peaceful location at this time of day. We did visit again with the kids and the experience was only slightly different- more people around!! Canoeing on the lake would have been lovely too, but unfortunately we didn't have the time .
We were back at our BnB in Canmore for a late breakfast and a quick shut eye before heading out to see a bit more of the town.
The afternoon was spent just walking around with very broad goals- we wanted to stroll along the Policeman's Creek Broadwalk and to go and see the historic Railway "Engine" Bridge.(We were told later by our much better informed daughter that both were apparently featured in the HBO series "The Last of Us" which we had never seen !!)
We managed both, exploring different paths along the way and generally enjoying the lovely views all around.
Policeman's Creek Broadwalk is an elevated walkway accessible all year around. Pick up some fresh fruit from the market and just meander along it enjoying the sounds of chirping birds as you walk past ponds with ducks swimming and forested areas. There are benches at several locations to just sit and relax while enjoying the beauty of nature.
The Engine Bridge is a historical bridge in Canmore as well as being an architectural marvel.
Today the Canmore Engine Bridge has transformed from a coal mine railway line to a pedestrian and cyclist path. It is also the location for numerous photos and yes even a film!!
Whether you are a history fan, a movie buff or just love beautiful locations this place doesn't disappoint. Perfect for a great day out, the area is very walkable and in good weather picnics are the way to go! Beware of the bears though as they too love the spot!!
On the way back we stopped for a few drinks in town before getting back to the bnb for the night!
Day 2
This day was set aside to explore the 2nd lake at Banff, Lake Louise.
We had thankfully pre booked a shuttle bus from Banff to Lake Louise and back with fixed timings so we were guaranteed seats which meant we spent all the time exploring instead of waiting in queues like the non reserved folk.
You could also drive yourself but during season the parking situation is, I believe, quite bad- in fact many people book the expensive high tea at The Fairmont at Lake Louise as this includes car parking facilities.
The fancy option would off course be staying at the Fairmont which would be an awesome experience but unfortunately most budgets don't cater for this !!
We had a wonderful day at stunning Lake Louise walking the circuit around the lake, climbing up to the Lake Agnes tea house, and splurging on champagne and a meal at the Fairmont café overlooking the lake!
The path around the lake is paved and flat and an easy walk with several places to sit, rest and watch the canoes. Its also a great place for photos with less people as most just crowd around the photo spot at the start!
A quick warning here to remember that the ONLY toilets are at the entrance near the chateau so be prepared!
The turn off for the Hike to the Lake Agnes Tea House is around 200m along the paved main promenade and there should be a sign saying Lake Agnes 3.6km. There are several hiking routes and horse trails so make sure you get the right one! The distance is about 3.6km each way and you gain about 400m in elevation. A moderately difficult trail if you aren't the fittest but take it slow and enjoy the views- there will be several others puffing with you while others smugly race ahead- don't get intimidated!! (It also helps to have a husband who happily carries your backpack and jacket some of the way !!!!! )
My main fear on the trek, however, was not difficulty but bears (didn't even get the bear spray because, well frankly, I would probably be too busy having a heart attack to use it!) but thankfully we didn't encounter any on this route!
Along the trail you will get great views of Lake Louise, go past the Mirror Lake and see the Big Beehive before reaching Lake Agnes. If you were planning to get a beverage or snack at the Tea House though, think again- the lines are huge and wait times long. Luckily we'd carried some beverages and a tiny snack( didn't want to attract the bears!) which we enjoyed sitting on the lakeshore before heading back down.
Once down from the trek we enjoyed a well deserved couple of hours at the Fairmont Hotel
(lucky to get the last table outdoors!) with bubbles, food and a fantastic view! Even got to see a wedding there!
Then it was a short wait for our bus before we returned back to Canmore.
Day 3
Today was a leisurely morning with a walk to see the 3 Sisters mountains, from a bit closer than our bnb, before lunch and a transfer to our next hotel where the kids were to join us!
Once the kids got in it was all about food and a stroll around Canmore to get them settled in before an early night to prepare for an early start the next day.
Day 4
Today I had booked a cute yellow school bus tour which covered several places of interest and was a flexible way to explore what we wanted. Its called Hop On Banff and covers what is called the Grizzly Route which goes to Johnston Canyon, Lake Louise Gondola, Lake Louise and Moraine Lake as the main stops. The best part is you are guaranteed a seat whenever the bus is there and this gives a load of flexibility to your schedule. The guides on the bus are happy to suggest routes as per your interest too. To make the most of your time its best to take the 1st bus out and last bus back which is what we did.
As we adults had already been to Lake Louise and Moraine Lake these were going to be short stops for the kids and the main focus was the Johnston Canyon walk and Lake Louise Gondola.
Johnston Canyon was the first stop on the route and we got off here around 0825hrs which gave us 1 hour and 45 minutes to explore before our next bus.
"This popular hiking trail follows the canyon and leads to a meadow within the Johnston Valley above the canyon. The first part of the trail consists of a constructed walkway with safety rails and bridges, while the last part of the trail is natural and more rugged. "
The route has the Lower falls(2.4 km return), the Upper falls(4.8km return) and the Ink Pots(10.8km return) which meant we would try for the Lower and Upper Falls but not have time for the Ink Pots.
After a quick visit to the toilets we headed out onto the trail.
It was a fairly easy walk with some steep bits and, off course, super scenery. So glad we did it early as it wouldn't have been as peaceful with crowds on the narrow trails!
We hustled on our way back and managed to grab a snack while waiting for the bus and then it was onto our next stop.
Lake Louise Gondola was our next stop and although Banff National Park has several gondolas, we chose to do this as it fit in well with our plans and it had the option of an open car or a closed one. Luckily we got good weather and so, off course, opted for an open gondola which magically seated all four of us! Despite keeping 4 sets of eyes peeled we didn't manage to spot any bears around but it was a nice ride nonetheless with beautiful views from the top!
Next stop was a quick one at Lake Moraine which looked as beautiful during the day as it had in the wee hours of the morning and being our 2nd time there we focused on different locations for our photos, with the kids enjoying some scrambling around!! It was astonishing how the color of the water looked so different at this time of day- super blue exactly like the photos! We even spotted an elk from the bus on the way to the last stop!
Post elk excitement was the last stop for us at Lake Louise. A stroll around the lake and a quick snack at the Fairmont before it was back to home base Canmore. After a full day we needed to get to bed early as we had another early start the next morning.
I feel obliged to say that the early starts were necessary as we needed to get to from Canmore to Banff for most tour start points, so if you stayed in Banff you could be a bit more relaxed timewise- we just didn't have the budget for that luxury!!
Day 5
This was one of the major expenses of our trip- The Columbia Icefields Parkway Tour. As this tour took us all the way to Jasper National Park, it was a full day out.
On the way to the Icefields we stopped at Bow Lake, one of the many lakes in this area and possibly one of the most beautiful.
We also stopped for a lovely mountain picnic lunch literally in a forest dotted with picnic tables and luckily a toilet!
Finally we reached our destination- The Columbia Icefields. This is the largest ice field in North America's Rocky Mountains and lies between Banff National Park and Jasper National Park. This icefield feeds 6 glaciers and but with global warming these glaciers are disappearing at an alarming rate.
We were to visit the Athabasca Glacier and the process was quite complex. First a check in at the Glacier Discovery Center which has toilets, coffee shops and a gift shop before boarding a shuttle to the transfer bay. At the transfer bay you board the mammoth Ice Explorer used for travel on glaciers. After a short but exciting ride you reach the glacier's edge where you disembark and have some time to walk around. I was disappointed that we couldn't walk on the actual glacier and be able to look into the crevasses but we were restricted to a cordoned off area. There are packages which allow you to actually walk on the ice but you had to get to the Icefields on your own for this adventure- this was what I'd actually wanted to do but none of us had any experience driving on icy and snowy roads and therefore we had no transportation.
I must say I felt a bit cheated as the cordon pretty much restricted us to slush and a small bit of ice but we managed to enjoy what we could and even gave ourselves the famous "glacial facials!" with the kids managing to bang their noses on the ice bottom causing them to bleed which only seemed to add to their excitement!!
We also filled our water bottle with freezing cold, pure glacial water to enjoy on our drive back.
Back to the Discovery Center for a quick coffee to warm up and a much needed loo break, it was on the shuttle to visit the nearby Columbia Icefield Skywalk next. To be honest it was okay, nothing amazing and if it wasn't included in our tour price we wouldn't have paid extra and done it. We mostly spent our time looking for the mountain goats and searching for waterfalls!!
Shuttle back to the Discovery Center and onto our original tour bus for the return journey home with a quick stop to see Peyto Lake from above. Also found here, as you see, was some leftover snow and off course a snowball HAD to be made!!
Almost everyone slept on the drive back while I while I kept my eyes peeled for bears and, even though I thought I spotted one, no-one believed me as apparently if there's no photo it didn't happen!!!!
Day 6
Our last day was here already but we had the morning free till our bus to Calgary in the evening. Have spent very little real time in Banff we thought we'd go hang around there and also make a quick trip to Lake Minnewanka.
Lake Minnewanka is a glacial lake about 5km from Banff town and there are several busses which make the trip.
Hiking, canoeing and picnicking are some popular activities here and the brave can even try swimming in the icy waters! In winter when the lake is frozen over its a great place for ice skating too. In season you can also book a short cruise on the lake and take in the sights.
Forests around this 21km long lake abound with wildlife such as deer, bears, wolves, elk, bighorn sheep, and a large variety of birds so keep a lookout as you explore.
We enjoyed strolling along the trail and taking in the beautiful surroundings before heading back to the bus. The wait for the bus was made most exciting when a herd of mountain goats came by- the cute baby even stopped and posed for some photos!
After getting back to Banff we just wandered about the main street, picked up some souvenirs and had a late lunch before conceding to the freezing rain and heading back to Canmore for our bus back to Calgary and then home.
Reflections
I think to sum up our trip I'd say this- the Canadian Rockies far exceeded their reputation of being one of the most beautiful natural places in the world. Pristine clear lakes and breathtaking scenery like I've never seen and a very visitor friendly infrastructure.
If it wasn't so very far away and so expensive to visit I'd love to visit over and over again!
For now I feel lucky to have been able to experience it at all and I know anyone whose been there will surely feel the same.
Things to Note:
If you drive the National Park you will get much more from your trip but remember some popular locations are not accessible by private car and tours sell out VERY early, so I strongly suggest booking well in advance to avoid disappointment.
Vehicles have to pay a daily entrance fee for the national park which adds to the expenses
Parking in most tourist sites is very difficult and you may waste a lot of time simple waiting for a spot.
Public transport is great here so you can get by without a car like we did
Tours sell out VERY fast so book even months ahead of travel to avoid disappointment
Wildlife sightings are not guaranteed- its all luck
Bears do live here and encounters do happen- take precautions and behave sensibly
Amazing trip with beautiful scenery and such peaceful places. You all look great. Thanks so much for sharing all this info. I have been to Banff for skiing and never imagined it so enchanting in the summer. On my bucket list!! Hugs.