Day 1
Georgous Georgous Georgous! Every corner of Brugge is stunning. Known as the Venice of Belgium, it certainly exceeds its reputation. A charming, romantic city with cobbled streets, beautiful canals and bridges, quaint alleys, horse drawn carriages and cathedral bells ringing through the city- I was in LOVE!
I had planned for 2 nights in the city as I wanted to avoid the day tripping tour groups which flooded Brugge in busloads, and it was the best decision I'd made.
By the time I'd settled into my lovely Air BnB, all the buses had departed and the city was at its natural, peaceful best. I headed out for a quick exploratory walk but ended up taking much longer than planned as Brugge was stunning at night and I just wanted to keep looking!
*Just a note here to say that the city is not too large and therefore easily walkable which, especially in Brugge, would be the BEST way to explore. If you're using a physical map(for those who still know what these are!) for directions, then note that these are slightly difficult to follow here as the street names are quite long. Trying to find crossings on the map is a true test of skill- have google maps handy to save TONNES of time!!
If, however, you're not a walker then there are buses and taxis available as well as bicycles on rent and horse drawn carriages for hire.
Brugge at Dusk
Brugge by Night
Finally on my way home and searching for a place to eat, I came across a cute waffle shop and of course my meal was decided! Strawberries and cream waffle- best dinner ever!!
Day 2
This was a busy day for me. First a free walking tour- I try to do these in every city I visit. Free tours are great if you are on a budget as it gives you a good idea of the main attractions without the excessive tour charges. Also, depending on the guide and group, they can be very entertaining and informative, and a good way to enjoy some company if you're travelling solo.
I reached the meeting point at Markt early, hoping to grab a coffee before the trip, and was delighted to see that there was a weekly market being set up( I think this happens every Wednesday but better double check if you plan a visit). From fresh fruit and vegetables, flowers of all hues, meats, cheeses and ready cooked food, it was all there. I wandered around, sorely tempted by the mouthwatering aromas, but settled on some delicious fresh strawberries for the 2 hour walk ahead.
I also couldn't resist taking this photo of a lady's bike with her shopping of roses in the basket- simple life at its finest.
The tour didn't disappoint- it started on time and the guide was fantastic and full of stories. The main places we visited were:
The Markt- also known as the Grand Place or Market Square. Dominated by the Belfry Tower, the Markt is surrounded by colorful houses and is the regular standing place for the famous horse carriages.
The Burg Square- an beautiful architectural square comprising the City Hall, the former civil registry and the Basilica of the Holy Blood. Many buildings here are gilded with gold and it is truly majestic to see.
The Beguinage- The Beguinage is a little walled area, now a world heritage site, that was once the home of ordinary women who led a pious and celibate life. The white homes surrounding the inner garden are today inhabited by nuns of the Order of St. Benedict and several Bruges women who have decided to remain unmarried. As you stand in the serene inner garden and listen to the gentle rustling of the trees, a sense of peace envelopes you and the worries of the world wash away for a while. Outside the walls too there is a sense of calm and tranquility and I recommend a visit here if time permits.
As it was lunchtime when the tour ended, I opted to try out a local restaurant, Hof Rembrandt, recommended by our guide. Outdoor seating with heaters for warmth, watching people go by, it was just the perfect location. I wanted to try the local fare and so ordered the Flemish stew and a local beer. The stew was hearty and nice but, despite not being a beer drinker, I loved the beer most! I looked for it in Brussels but never found it again. Moral of the story- drink more while you can!
Bourgogne de Flanders Flemish Stew
Warmed up and belly full, the afternoon plan was to visit the tiny town of Damme and see some windmills on the way. I had read that this was a nice route to cycle but I was not confident of my peddling abilities. The other option was to walk to the riverboat and take that to Damme. This seemed more up my street so I set course. After about half an hour of walking I reached the windmills. There are several fairly close to each other and I visited 3.
In hindsight this is where I should have turned back.
Post the windmills, the walk along the canal was quite lonely and when google maps finally told me I'd reached the riverboat dock, there was nothing in sight. No-one to ask either. At this point I had to decide whether to continue walking all the way to Damme or turn back- thank God common sense prevailed. Rather than push my already aching feet and fight the increasing windchill, I decided to turn back. It still took me over an hour of walking in rain and cold to get home but I was sooo glad when I did.
I had read about the unreliable bus and boat service to Damme and now I'd experienced it firsthand. I don't know if it's a seasonal thing or it's always this way but if you plan to visit Damme, maybe join a group or get a local guide- I wouldn't recommend walking it, that too alone.
Overall I'd like to say that Brugge was AMAZING- I would love to return and explore the city more thoroughly and visit the places I didn't get time to visit. If you are a romantic at heart and love all things picturesque, put Brugge on your bucket list- preferably at the top!