The Covid 19 pandemic and the shutdown of international travel hit everyone hard, especially those countries with severe lockdowns. Luckily Thailand's restrictions were not as severe or extended and local travel was, for the most part, allowed.
To aid the economy domestic tourism was encouraged and was the best thing to happen to us here. We got an opportunity to explore parts unknown to us and visit places we probably would never have heard of or had the time to visit under normal circumstances.
There was no method or plan to my travels- when I saw an opportunity I went! Some travels were with my husband, some with friends and some alone. As my exploring is an ongoing process I'll keep adding to the blog as and when I visit someplace new. The map below is a guide to general locations!
Ok so lets start in the North with a small city called Lampang.
Lampang
Lampang was meant to be our base to visit the Floating Pagodas- we'd seen some photos on social media during lockdown and it looked lovely. Although it can be done as a day trip from Chiang Mai, we decided to overnight it to give it more of a holiday feel! Not many hotels looked to be our style but finally found and stayed at a lovely little hotel called The Karpenter, Lampang- Clean, comfortable and fantastic fresh croissants! I recommend it to anyone looking for accommodation there.
Lampang seemed a small little town but there was a surprisingly happening little food market which we visited at night- great atmosphere and decent choice of small restaurants located around an open air courtyard. Very little English spoken so be ready with the charades!
The unexpected gem in Lampang, however, was the Dhanabadee Ceramic Factory and Museum. To visit, a guided tour is compulsory, and this is paid for at the entrance( Thb.100 for foreigners). It is offered in several different languages which indicates the variety of groups who visit. The tour itself is very informative and interesting detailing the history of the factory, the process of ceramic production and a visit to the museum. The are some fun photo opportunities too!
After the tour there is a café, workshop and store across the road which is a great visit. Not only can you get a chilled beverage but you can try your hand at painting some ceramics yourself! The store has some lovely products as souvenirs or gifts and its unlikely you will leave empty handed!!
Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat / Floating Pagodas
About a 2.5hr drive from Chiang Mai or a 1 hr drive from Lampang, this temple is unique in that each pagoda is on a different peak. I believe the pieces of each pagoda were carried up by a revered local monk and a team of workers over a decade ago- a testament to their devotion and dedication.
You can't actually go up to the different pagodas but rather to a main temple from which these decorative domes can be seen.
The site is officially open from 8.30-5pm daily but there is some flexibility depending on number of visitors, groups and holidays.
The entrance fee to the national park is Thb.200 for foreigners and the compulsory shuttle up another Thb. 80 for a round trip.
Once the shuttle or song taw has a full load, it takes you from the parking area to most of the way up the mountain. The last 500 m or so needs to be covered by foot so good footwear, water and some amount of fitness is required.
After a short path through the trees, the climb up begins. Don't be daunted by the unending number of stairs you see as there are several viewpoints along the way which double up as rest stops. Take your time and enjoy the journey.
At the top there are 2 small hills, both have temples and are worth a visit since you made it all the way up anyway!
The view from the top of each hill is stunning and combined with the peaceful surroundings and the sense of calm, it is a truly beautiful place.
Take in the atmosphere before the walk down and maybe refresh yourself at the small local coffee place below while waiting for the shuttle back.
Chiang Dao
Chiang Dao is a a small town about 1.5 hrs drive from Chiang Mai city. Again you could visit as a day trip from Chiang Mai, an overnight trip or a stopover on the way to Chiang Rai( this route to Chiang Rai is slightly longer than the direct one). It all depends on what you wish to do and how long you have.
There are several nice BnBs to stay at or maybe book to stay at a bubble hotel for a unique experience!
We stayed the night at "The Campian" in a bubble, just for the experience and it was great. The evening and night were lovely but as soon as the sun rose it became a furnace- best done in cooler months! The view ,however, was unbeatable and although we were the first non- Thai guests they had had, the staff was super helpful and accommodating. Very little English spoken but google translate was a star!
The main attraction at Chiang Dao is the Chiang Dao Cave. The underground cave system spans over 12km, much of which is unexplored, and contains stalactites and stalagmites and large crystal formations that shine in the cave depths. The cave is a revered place of worship for Thai people and you will see numerous carvings, statues and chedis within the it. The best way to explore the area is with a guide, many of whom are available for hire at a nominal price at the entrance. Some speak a bit of English but not much, so often its a guess at to what is being explained! Still they are very friendly and willing to repeat themselves to be understood.
Few things to note:
- there is walking and climbing involved
- there are tight passages you will need to squeeze through
- you must be respectfully dressed so no knees/shoulders bare for women. No one really checks but its best to be polite
- can get chilly inside especially in the cooler months
Chiang Dao is also home to the Doi Luang Chiang Dao mountain, which is the 3rd highest mountain in Thailand and is within the Chiang Dao National Park.
Hiking and Camping is very popular here but it requires time and also a good level of fitness. We did not try as it was a sweltering hot day and we also didn't have the time. There are supposedly campsites available within the national park, but again, I have no 1st hand experience of this.
Also available are rafting and cycling experiences but, again, it was really hot and we didn't have the time. We hope to return during cooler weather and experience some of what we missed!
Whether you are just visiting Chiang Dao or are on the way to Chiang Rai, a nice place to stop, if time permits, is Hinokiland. It is about an hours drive from Chiang Dao and just a fun place to visit to get a feel of Japan! As our trip to the actual country never happened due to the pandemic, this had to do till things improved! Nice place to spend a couple of hours and great fun playing dress up!!
Chiang Rai
Living in Chiang Mai we have made several trips to Chiang Rai and below are the places and events we have enjoyed the most- not because of their popularity but because of their uniqueness.
The White Temple
You know its going to be different when you see this before you enter the temple complex!
Most unusual and a bit bizarre, this temple is the creation of local artist and painter Chalermchai Kositpipat. Parting from the traditional gold, this temple is snow white and beautifully ornate. The entrance to the temple is over a bridge which passes over a sea of outstretched hands, symbolic of the suffering souls in hell- very unusual, a bit disturbing yet somehow captivating.
The artwork inside too is unusual as Chalermchai uses iconic modern characters and symbols such as spaceships, superman, and even Neo from the Matrix movie, to tell the stories of the Buddha’s life and his teachings. Definitely something visitors will remember!
The outside areas are beautiful too with "wishing" wells, peaceful Buddha statues and corridors of prayer leaves rustling in the wind as if whispering wishes up to the heavens -you can write your name on one too and hang it up to join the thousands of others.
Walking around the grounds we found many unexpected buildings but the most stunning was the fully golden Ganesha Hall- absolutely dazzling. No idea why it is there but Hinduism and Buddhism seem to share many beliefs and Ganesha is revered in Thailand too- I've found several Buddhist Temples with Ganesha shrines close to them.
After being in Thailand several years, temples no longer excite me as much as they used to but when I come across such unusual gems I find myself happy to explore again!
The Blue Temple
Another off beat temple is the Blue Temple- nowhere as controversial as The White Temple but definitely worth a visit. This Temple's unusual radiant blue color both outside and within is stunning and in contrast to the blue, the white Buddha statue inside seems to positively glow! It didn't surprise me to learn that this temple was built by a student of Mr. Chalermchai Kositpipat, the mastermind behind The White Temple. If you walk around you can also find artisans working on statues and temple decorations on the grounds and their skill is inspiring to watch.
The Black House
Another most unusual place to visit in Chiang Rai. Not for the feint hearted or the squeamish, The Black House is not a single house but rather a collection of mostly dark teak wood buildings scattered around a huge garden like space. The brainchild of artist Thawan Duchanee, it is his interpretation of the Buddhist philosophy and has caused plenty of controversy over the years. His work initially shocked conservative Thais who felt he was disrespecting Buddhism and even led to people physically attacking his paintings. Fortunately he was supported by leading figures in Thai society and today he is celebrated as having been one of Thailand's leading artists.
His vision is not for everyone and his use of animal skin and bones, dark images and phallic structures may not be something you want children to see so keep that in mind before visiting. Even the bathrooms have not escaped his unique treatment and are a must visit if only to see the decor!!
I would say a very unusual place and absolutely worth a visit if you enjoy the unexpected!
The Big Buddha- Wat Huay Pla Kung
Although called the Big Buddha, the enormous white statue at the Wat is actually that of Guanyin, the Chinese Goddess of Mercy.
The Guanyin statue sits on a hill and can be reached either by climbing a flight of stairs flanked on either side by 2 dragons or by taking a free shuttle up to the top . The 90 m statue is actually hollow and you can take the elevator up 25 floors for great views through the eyes. At the top the interiors are covered in pure white stucco depictions of Guanyin, mythical creatures and trees and are simply beautiful.
There is also a 9 story pagoda on the Wat grounds which you can climb up for good views of the Guanyin statue, but we didn't have time to do this and instead settled for a quick visit to the Temple which lies between the statue and the pagoda.
Singha Park
We have made quite a few visits to this place as it is huge and hosts several festivals throughout the year. It is also a lovely place to visit to see beautiful seasonal flowers bloom and is very well organized with several family friendly activities at the sports and recreational center such as ziplining, cycling etc.
The best time to visit however, in my opinion, is during the famous annual Chiang Rai Hot Air Balloon Festival. Never having seen or been on a balloon I was super excited! Tickets sell out really fast even though the space is MASSIVE and we had booked online many weeks ahead. Despite having tickets we had to wait in snakelike lines to get our entrance wristbands and be transported to the venue from the carpark. (transport is well organized and free).
When we finally reached, the atmosphere was electric- all sorts of balloons were on display for the competition section, thousands of people milling around taking photos, bands playing, food trucks and stalls- simply A-M-A-Z-I-N-G! I don't know when this experience will be possible again but I feel so lucky to have done it at least once! We even managed to do a short tethered test balloon ride which was thrilling and I couldn't wait for the next day when we had booked an hour long, untethered, sunrise balloon ride!
The next morning we were back at the park well before light to prepare for our balloon adventure. I really don't know how to express how it was except that it was magical. All my fears were distracted by the fun shaped balloons and the lovely views all around. The growling of the flames along with the much welcome heat from them just added to the atmosphere and it was truly a lifetime experience. I hope my photos can do justice to the day.
Bear with me in terms of photos but I feel I must do a separate gallery for all the adorable balloons we saw because they really deserve to be highlighted and enjoyed so here it goes......!
PS. The Balloon festival is only one of many events that happen at Singha park so, if you are planning a trip, check out their website to see what may be on at that time.
Phu Chi Fah
My favorite place so far, using Chiang Rai as a base, has been Phu Chi Fah. The draw here was to see the sunrise over the mountains- sounds nothing special but its actually really magical!
To get to see this magic however requires some effort.
Located about a 2 hour drive from Chiang Rai, to get there for the sunrise you need to leave your hotel by latest 430am! As we visited during the pandemic, the roads were deserted and pitch black. No signages anywhere, narrow, windy, steep, hilly climbs and no lighting made for a very scary drive and we were reliant solely on Google maps to get us there. Even when our "destination had arrived" we saw nothing. Still dark, not a soul in sight and no idea where to go we decided to wait in the car in what seemed like a parking place, hoping to see someone, anyone, to ask for directions. After a couple of cars passed by going further uphill we decided to follow, hoping they were going to the same place.
Within minutes we reached a much larger parking area with a few more cars and a sole lady selling tea. By now with the night lessening, we spotted some steps which the tea lady confirmed would led us to the viewpoint. Feeling more confident we began the climb and soon found a few others on the trail who confirmed we were on the right path. The climb was not too difficult but as we were racing the sun it felt much harder! As we approached the top, we were astounded to see many many people already waiting- no idea where they had come from as we hadn't seen more than a handful on our path- possibly there was another approach we were unaware of. The numbers surprised us considering it was pandemic times but we were told that the crowds were actually much less than normal! For us this just meant jostling with fewer people for a spot to see the sunrise!
And boy what a sunrise it was. Breathtakingly beautiful. The journey there was more than made up for by the destination. As I'm not a poet I can't describe the beauty as it deserves, but I did have a camera and will let the photographs try and do the job.
Definitely worth the effort and ABSOLUTELY worth a visit!