Angkor Wat or "city of temples"- a UNESCO World Heritage Site- is the worlds largest religious monument by area. It is today one of the most important pilgrimage sites for Buddhists in Cambodia and around the world. Angkor Wat has, in fact, become a symbol of Cambodia and even appears on its national flag.
Its historic significance and beautiful structures make it the main tourist attraction in Cambodia and its upkeep and restoration is a continuous process with much of the work being done with expertise from countries such as India, France, Japan and China.
The best time of day to visit is undoubtedly sunrise when the Wat is bathed by the morning sunlight. Simply breathtaking despite the hoards of people you must overlook to enjoy it!
Plan your visit ahead of time and please hire a local guide who will not only make the ticketing process easier but whose historic insights are essential to understanding Angkor's value.
For the sunrise tour we were taken VERY early to the government office for our day pass/ticket.
1-day pass – US$ 37
3-day pass – US$ 62
7-day pass – US$ 72
We opted for the 1 day pass and reached the Angkor Wat site almost 2 hours before sunrise-in high season apparently ticketing can take a long time and the early tourist gets the best vantage points!
Actually, even if you do not wish to see the sunrise, go early to escape the afternoon heat which can get unbearable. Also remember, as it is a religious site, respectful clothing is essential- knees and shoulders must be covered.
From the parking, a temporary floating walk bridge( the original was under renovation) took us across the moat and we entered the Angkor complex under moon and torchlight to sit and wait for the sunrise.
2 hours in almost total darkness passes slowly but there are a few local tea/coffee/breakfast places inside for a coffee fix ,but, as expected they are not fancy or cheap.
Public restrooms are available.
As sunrise came closer we could see the sky lightening, crowds growing and the faint silhouette of the temple which till now had been completely shrouded in darkness.
I cannot express the magical process of the sunrise in mere words nor the sheer beauty it unveiled. Even the photographs don't do it justice- its one of those things you need to experience for yourself. Take as many pictures as you want but also please just stand still and enjoy a few moments- take it all in and experience it.
After sunrise we entered the Angkor Wat temple and spent a wonderful few hours with our guide discovering and exploring the site. Every turn, stairway and corner led to places beautiful and we really felt so lucky to experience it all. There is a fair bit of walking and climbing so wear good shoes!
Our next stop, after a quick breakfast back at our hotel, was Ta Prohm Temple.
Ta Phrom
Unlike most Angkorian temples, Ta Prohm remains almost exactly as it was found: years ago it was thought to be "a temple which had best merged with the jungle, but not yet to the point of becoming a part of it" and a decision was taken to not change its character but simply to stabilize the ruins, to permit access, and to maintain "this condition of apparent neglect". The photogenic combination of trees growing out of the ruins and the jungle surroundings have made it one of Angkor's most popular temples with visitors and I totally could see why. A definite must visit in my book.
Ps. The strangely eerie atmosphere at the temple was also recognized in the Hollywood movie "Tomb Raider" which used it as a location for some of the scenes!
Bayon Temple
Next on our Angkor journey was The Bayon Temple located at the center of the Angkor Thom complex. Best known for its close to 200 serene faces sculpted on its towers, there is a lot of debate as to who the faces represent. Some historians believe that they are King Jayavarman VII while other theories suggest that they are the face of a Bodhisattva (Buddhism's compassionate and enlightened being) or even a combination of Buddha and Jayavarman.
This answer may be lost to us forever but whether Bayon was Hindu or Buddhist or both, the temple's complexity and intricacy is indisputable.
Inside each of the 3 levels, the Bayon features numerous gallery mazes, passageways, and stairs. The various layers are intertwined so it can get difficult to distinguish where one level starts and another begins.
The Temple also features over 11,000 carved figures, known as bas-reliefs, with the carvings depicting various historical figures and events as well as religious and mythological imagery.
Truly a work of art.
By the time we were done it was close to sunset and we were taken to a spot by the river at the entrance to Angkor Thom to enjoy it- there is a preferred place at the top of a hill but apparently it was too crowded and we would not be able to see much( I have a feeling the guide didn't want to go!). In any case we got to see a lovely sunset which rounded off our day of exploring quite nicely!
Kulen Mountains or Phnom Kulen
The Kulen Mountain range and national park is a much visited location as it has a range of things to see.
A couple of things to note before planning this day trip.
1. The entrance ticket is SEPARATE from the Angkor Wat pass and can be bought at 3 locations for about $20.
At a hotel in Siem Reap called City Angkor Hotel
Through your hotel or tour companies
At the mountain itself. Local police sell the tickets
2. The road up the mountain is fairly narrow so 2 cars cannot pass together which is why you can only go UP the mountain till 11am and only come DOWN after 12pm.
While the 3 main sights are the waterfalls, the Preah Ang Thom and the 1000 Lingas, there are several other things one can experience such as the Landmine Museum, scenic spots and even a shooting gallery! We opted out of the waterfalls as it was way too hot and we also didn't have the time but managed to visit the other locations.
Preah Ang Thom
The largest reclining Buddha in Cambodia is found at the top of Preah Ang Thom pagoda. The reclining Buddha here is a massive feature and stretches eight meters (approximately 25 feet) in length. To get to it you need to climb 2 sets of stairs- one from the parking lot to the base and then one up to the pagoda. They are not difficult to climb but can get awfully crowded.
Way Up
There are various shrines as the base as well as a huge linga which many people worship at for fertility. It was interesting to see the Hindu Gods and Buddhas both being worshipped and reminded us how much the 2 religions have in common.
Flower sellers and small trinket shops provide visitors with offerings for the Gods but the most interesting item being sold was bunches of small denomination currency notes. Apparently people buy these and stop at each of several park rangers locations on the route down and hand them out as a thank you! It wasn't a myth- we actually saw several cars stopping and doing this.
The climb up to the pagoda is short but slow because the great views encourage most people to stop and take photographs.
The reclining Buddha up top is large and housed in a small pagoda which makes it seem even bigger. Candles and offering are placed all around and after a walk around, it was back down again.
River of a Thousand Lingas
Having decided to skip the waterfalls, we headed next to the River of a Thousand Lingas. It is believed that the Siem Reap River flowing into Angkor is blessed by the sacred lingas over which it flows. The Lingam is the phallic symbol of the Hindu God Shiva.
I must confess I was underwhelmed by the place- maybe my expectations had been too high, maybe it was the wrong season or maybe it was not well maintained. I had difficulty recognizing or even seeing the carvings in the stones despite them being pointed out to me- erosion over time and mossy overgrowth have not treated this historic location well and it doesn't seen to be in the limelight for restoration either. The only thing I managed to see were some of the underwater lingas carved into the riverbed.
Although the site in its current state wasn't that impressive for me, the idea of carving all these images and structures at such a difficult location so many years ago was nothing short of miraculous and a sign of extreme devotion.
Huge Rocks in Nature
Although not an official sight, this scenic spot on the Kulen is stunning. The scale makes you feel miniscule and the views are super. Standing on either side of giant cracks in the stone is both exciting and a little bit scary but also a humbling experience. Great place to experience nature in solitude as its a bit off the typical tourist track!
The Landmine Museum
Being more interested in exploring outdoors than indoors, we were persuaded to visit this museum by a friend.
I was amazed and horrified to learn that the existence and effects on landmines in Cambodia is present till today. Dozens of civilians are still injured or killed every year by landmines and UXOs (unexploded ordinances) which are found in backyards, rice fields where people work and on the roads where children walk to school. Millions of the country’s landmines have now been cleared, but there is still a lot of work to be done.
The frightening reality is that it is estimated Cambodia will not be entirely free of landmines for several decades to come- a very sobering fact.
The nominal $5 ticket and any donations are spent in Cambodia to clear landmines, build schools, offer education to the poor etc.
A truly worthy enterprise and if you get a chance to visit or donate please do so. I came away with a feeling of sadness for humanity's cruelty but also hope that there are so many good people working hard to make a positive difference- we need many more.
With more than enough to see during the day, our 2 evenings were spent visiting the Phare Circus famous in Siam Reap and exploring the walking street full of bars and restaurants.
Phare Circus
"More than just a circus, Phare performers use theater, music, dance and modern circus arts to tell uniquely Cambodian stories; historical, folk and modern. Phare artists are students and graduates from Phare Ponleu Selpak’s vocational training center in Battambang which was founded as a public and art school. Music and theatre followed and finally, for the kids who wanted more, the circus school. It offers free education and today more than 1,200 pupils attend the public school daily and 500 attend the alternative schools.
Phare The Cambodian Circus offers these students and graduates somewhere to hone their skills and a place to earn a decent wage. Money that will take them out of poverty and give them self-respect and freedom."
With little expectation we went to the show, again on the recommendation of a local friend, and were surprised at the level of showmanship we saw. It was well organized and clearly the efforts of truly passionate young folk . The skill, technical difficulty and artistry was beautiful to watch and I would recommend it to anyone who visits. There are different show themes and we saw the one about rice as an ingredient of life. Great way to spend the evening while contributing to the future of hard working men and women determined to earn themselves a good life.
Nightlife
The most popular place for an evening out is pub street. Lined with bars and restaurants, you will find drinks and food to suit any wallet. As the evening progresses, the music gets louder and one or several parties can be found going till late. If you prefer a slightly more refined and quieter space, explore the offshoot alleys to discover quaint and cozy spaces for more mature adults! One of my favorites was Miss. Wong- check it out if you can!
On that happy note I wind up our adventures in Siam Reap and wish you safe travels and exciting adventures ahead!