Norway has been a place I've wanted to visit ever since I watched an episode of Joanna Lumley's travel show "In The Land of The Northern Lights". Key of course was to get there when there was a chance to glimpse the Aurora Borealis and as it happened, 2024 March was when all plans fell into place. Of course my research began much before March- probably around October actually and thank goodness I planned ahead as most tours and experiences were sold out by Jan/Feb! (I must say that there really is no excuse to leave it to the last minute anyway as the cancellation policies of most providers are very generous and allow great flexibility.)
On the itinerary were 3 cities- Tromso, Oslo and Bergen. Our must see list, time, and the season all played a large role in choosing these as, being the tail end of winter, some cities and experiences were still inaccessible due to snow and ice.
Norwegian was our airline of choice as we were travelling from the Uk. Not having flown with them before I wasn't sure what to expect but ,on the whole, the journeys were pleasant enough and I'd use them again without hesitation.
Tromso
Our first stop was Tromso and it was also our busiest!
We stayed at the Moxy Hotel which was located between the airport and the city center. As Tromso is a fairly small city this meant we could reach either within 10 minutes by car or 15 minutes by bus- perfect. We used busses most of the time as The Moxy, conveniently, has 3 bus stops close by. The transport ticketing system in Tromso is called Troms Billet- just download the app and connect your payment method to start using. Tickets can also be bought at ticket kiosks (which are not everywhere) or on the bus in cash (NOK only) and exact change needs to be given. Much more convenient to use the app!
Taxis are available too but are, of course, more expensive.
I must say our hotel was perfect for us and the views from the top floor lobby/ restaurant/ bar were stunning. I believe the Aurora can be seen from here on a clear night if there are high activity levels but sadly we didn't see this:(
By the time we checked in to the hotel it was late evening and we were trying to acclimatize from the 38C we live in to the 5C we had landed in, so we spent the evening in the hotel just relaxing.
Day 1
After a relaxed breakfast we set off to acquaint ourselves with the city center and spent the morning strolling around and exploring. Easily walkable, as its not a vast area, and loads of places to stop for a coffee or a bite to eat. The only place we found disappointing was the Troll Museum - expensive tickets for a basic experience and in my opinion totally not worth the effort. Everything else was beautiful but do dress warm- it's COLD!!
Lunch was at the cutest little shack selling hotdogs and drinks- the hot mulled wine Norwegian style and reindeer hotdogs with the traditional toppings were delicious! (I have since discovered that this place is one of the most famous spots in Tromso!!)
Post lunch it was back to the hotel to rest up before a long night of chasing Aurora!
Unless you have many days, a car and the ability to drive far and wide in icy/snowy conditions , please book one of several tours that specialize in hunting the Aurora. It is also important to note that this is a NATURAL phenomenon and does not appear to order. Many people book several tours in the hopes they may get lucky but the tours are expensive, and there are no guarantees. Often the guides will travel into neighboring countries in the hopes of better visibility and still no luck.
We neither had the time nor the funds to make multiple attempts so I researched a lot to find a tour company that had A+ reviews for effort and preparedness.
Northern Lights Hunt with The Green Adventure did not disappoint. They were great with communication and were well prepared for the weather. The guide was informative and entertaining in equal parts and we had a great time especially when Lady Aurora showed up in her finest form! It was truly magical and we felt very very lucky. The colors were a bit faded as the full moon made the skies too bright but the camera helped enhance the visuals.
We made several stops to admire the Aurora as she danced and disappeared, almost as if teasing us, and were rewarded each time!
We were offered hot drinks at the first pit stop and it was very welcome as the temperature was around -1C( apparently the tours in winter get to -20C !!).
At the last stop by the roadside, the guide made a warming fire and we sat around it eating instant reindeer meat soup from a packet, toasting marshmallows and chatting about the local area etc. while Aurora danced in and out- an unforgettable experience indeed!
I must mention that the tour started at 7pm and we were back in the hotel by around 230am with no toilets in between so be prepared for a long night!!
Day 2
After a very late night chasing the lights, it was a super early start to get to the Lyngen Alps for our first time snowmobiling!
Again the meeting point was in the city center, from where we boarded a bus for the 45 min drive to the ferry point. Many tours set off at this time for various activities so make sure you get on the right bus- there are tour leaders who will guide you.
We went with Camp Troll and booked through Viator.
The drive was very scenic and enjoyable as was the ferry crossing. The ferry had a small snack bar as well as toilets both of which were welcome after the early morning start!
When we docked it was a quick mini van drive straight to Camp Troll.
At Camp Troll we were settled into a warm cozy yurt for our driving license checks and instructions for the activity. Warm drinks were provided and there were toilets to use here as well.
After the group were all kitted up, it was a quick guide to the controls and safety checks before we headed out.
Each snowmobile seats two with a driver change half way so everyone wanting to drive gets a chance.
I must admit I was a bit nervous of driving so I chose to go first- bite the bullet so to speak!!
After the initial few minutes I got the hang of things and started enjoying myself - it was, however, quite a workout for the arms and wrists and I was happy to relinquish controls half way and just sit back and enjoy the view!! The guides were super helpful and at every photo stops they were more than willing to take as many photos as we wanted! Hot beverages were provided mid point to keep us warm as we took in the pristine views.
Back at camp we were treated to a simple lunch of delicious local soup and homemade bread which somehow tasted even better after such an amazing day!
Minivan, ferry, bus and local bus till we were back at our hotel for a well deserved evening of rest and relaxation!
Day 3
This was our last day in Tromso so after a relaxed breakfast we headed into town for some lunch which had to be reindeer sausage and local brown cheese- both of which I was becoming more and more attached to!
Our Sami Reindeer Experience was in the afternoon so after lunch it was a quick walk to the pick up point nearby.
After a 25 minute bus ride we arrived at the Sami camp, eager to finally mingle with the reindeer herd- and after a quick cup of cocoa in the warm hut we headed out.
Slipping and sliding in the melting snow we managed to reach the feeding point were the herd of hungry reindeer were waiting for us. Buckets of feed in hand we were like bait and were bumped and butted from all sides by reindeer wanting their grub!!
Amazing experience, truly, but eventually the cold got to us and we reluctantly traipsed back into the warm "gamme" (traditional Sami hut) for the best lunch of " bidos" ( reindeer stew) I'd ever eaten- truly scrumptious !!
Post lunch my husband tried his hand at some lassoing of a wooden reindeer while I moved to the main tent to stay warm!
When everyone was ready, we settled into the gamme for a very interesting storytelling of Sami culture along with some joiking ( traditional Sami folk singing) before returning to Tromso.
All in all it was a lovely way to spend the afternoon getting to know both the traditional Sami way of living as well as spending time with all of Santa's helpers!
We were back in Tromso by 5pm, perfect time to head up in the Fjellheisen cable car to the mountain top to hopefully catch a beautiful sunset over Tromso! Well planned me had already bought tickets online so there was no waiting in queue and in just 5-10 minutes we were headed up.
The cable car upper station has toilets and a café serving hot drinks, food and wine. Seating is usually full and there are loads of people standing around, but its a great place to thaw out after you've explored outdoors. There is also a lovely viewing terrace attached to the café for people who don't wish to go onto the mountain for whatever reason.
After a quick loo break we stepped out ...... into wonderland! Stunning and freezing are the two words that come to mind when trying to describing this place. The pristine white snow covered mountain with the dazzling view of Tromso below absolutely took our breath away. Despite the biting wind we explored to our hearts content as what are frozen noses and digits when the views are to die for?!
After coffee and a few wines at the cafe to warm up, we headed back down the mountain and returned to the hotel, feeing sad that our amazing time in Tromso had come to an end.
Oslo
An early morning flight from Tromso brought us into Oslo and our hotel by 1030 am. We'd picked the Moxy X Oslo which was a lovely hotel but it was in the middle of nowhere! Luckily we were there only 2 nights and there were a couple of bus stops nearby for travelling into the city which we did. Oslo's transport and ticketing app is called Ruter and I highly recommend downloading it if you plan to use public transport.
Both of our days in Oslo were rainy and snowy so we did what we could and ignored the weather as far as possible!
Day 1
As we'd arrived in Oslo quite early we had a relaxing few hours settling in before getting lunch recommendations from the hotel staff and heading into town.
Oslo was like any regular large city- much more activity and off course many more people.
Our bus took us to the central station from where we had a long walk to get to the restaurant but we enjoyed taking in the sights and getting the lay of the land- even stopped for a beer on the way!
(I highly recommend The Salmon for a meal- best selection of the local salmon in every form)
Having had an early start to the day we decided to head back to the hotel by the evening and have relaxing night in.
Day 2
Our only full day to explore Oslo, we fueled up on breakfast before heading out.
Ideally we would have done a tour to make the most of our little time but the hotel was quite far and meet up timings were early so we decided to see what we could on our own.
Loads of walking in rain and snow but I think we managed to touch most of the city's highlights before lunch.
The Opera House, The Fort, The National Theatre, The Oslo Cathedral, The Royal Palace, The Oslo City Hall
All the walking was quite tiring and we stopped for a well deserved lunch break before heading out to the Vigeland Park.
Vigeland Park is the worlds largest sculpture park containing Gustav Vigeland's life's work. There are over 200 sculptures in granite, bronze and wrought iron placed around the park.
The weather was miserable but we still managed a walk around most of this huge area enjoying the sculptures before heading back to the hotel.
Sharing a few of my favorites.
Well that was Olso in a nutshell for us as we were off to Bergen by train the next day!
Bergen
We came to Oslo in snow and left in snow!
The Oslo -Bergen train, I'd read, was one of the most scenic routes in Norway and although the views were lovely to us who had never seen so much snow before, they probably would have been much better in the spring/ summer. Unfortunately the trip was somewhat marred as the last, most scenic, sector was closed due to a derailment and we were herded like cattle into busses to our final destination.
Nobody's fault but unfortunate non the less.
Below are some views from the train.
Again our choice of accommodation was the Moxy Bergen- this time location was perfect! Great views from the room, near public transport and with several shops and restaurants nearby.
Next to the hotel, fortunately, was also a hospital where we spent most of the evening and a chunk of the morning as I had come down with shingles and needed medication.
I mention this as a precaution to travelers to Europe- if you need medical help of any sort, be prepared to wait several hours to see a doctor and coming from Asia this came as a shock. All I needed was a simple prescription but as I was non- emergency the wait was over 10 hrs! So please carry any medication you could possibly need as no pharmacy will sell to you without a local prescription.
Anyway, by the afternoon, medicated to the brim, I was raring to start exploring Bergen!
Of course, again, the travel and ticketing app had to be downloaded and here it was the Skyss Billet.
Day 1
My first impression of Bergen was very positive- it seemed just the kind of quaint heritage small town that I loved. The city center was about a 10 min bus ride from the hotel and this was pretty much the only time we used transport as it was such a pleasure to walk and explore the nooks and crannies of the city.
We first headed to The Unesco World Heritage site of Bryggen. Bryggen is the historic harbor district in Bergen.
"Bryggen has been damaged by a number of fires through the centuries and has been rebuilt after every fire, closely following the previous property structure and plan as well as building techniques. Bryggen’s appearance today stems from the time after the fire in 1702. The buildings are made of wood in keeping with vernacular building traditions. The original compact medieval urban structure is preserved with its long narrow rows of buildings facing the harbour, separated by narrow wooden passages."- Unesco
Each building today is used for some kind of commercial purpose- hotel, bar, shop, cafe and may appear touristy but the historical essence remains. Even the buildings under repair are camouflaged by covers printed to look like the original!!
It was fascinating going down the narrow alleys and exploring the area- one of the most unique places I've seen.
Some pictures of the Bryggen wooden and brick buildings below. Try spot the ones under maintenance!
Barely five minutes walk from the wooden complex is St. Mary's Church, the oldest remaining building in all of Bergen. Unfortunately it was closed so we didn't get to see the inside.
A few minutes walk more and you reach the majestic Bergenhus Fortress, which is one of the oldest preserved fortresses in Norway. It consists of several buildings and the area has a central position in the country's history as a military, administrative and political center.
Bryggen being the harbor district, of course, means there is a sea and walking anywhere the views are fantastic. Bergen, however, is also Norway's wettest city so the bars, restaurants, and cafes all around are the best places to sit and enjoy these awesome views! We did also wander into the roads and alleys behind the main buildings to discover quaint shops, eateries and homes- you can't get lost unless you really try!!
Day 2
Today we were booked on a short cruise to experience the Norwegian Fjords. A fjord is a long narrow sea inlet with steep sides/ cliffs and are created by glacial action and Norway has more than a thousand!
As we were there towards the tail end of winter, our choice of fjord was limited as the water was still frozen in places and thus unpassable.
The Mostraumen Fjord Cruise was operational and this is what we went on.
The boat was nothing special- toilets and tiny coffee window but the views were awesome. Despite it being windy, rainy and freezing we spent a fair bit of time on the outer deck enjoying the views. Only when we couldn't feel out faces and noses did we come back inside to defrost before heading back out! Again, as beautiful as it was, I could imagine just how spectacular it must be in the spring/ summer time- maybe we will return!
We returned to the harbor wet and hungry and made a beeline to our favorite bar for a few drinks and nibbles before heading back to the hotel.
Day 3
Our last day in Norway we wanted to head up to Mount Fløyen using the Floibanen funicular .
The funicular has a lower, an intermediate and an upper station. You can get single or round trips from any of them and many people combine the ride up with a walk down. We opted to do the same.
The ride to the top takes about 8 minutes and is wheelchair and stroller accessible. It can carry up to 90 people at a time so the waits were not too long. Once at the top a fantastic view over Bergen awaits you along with a restaurant, a café, a playground, troll forest, horse riding for kids, a lovely lake and various hiking trails. You could easily spend a day here especially in good weather.
It was windy and cold when we got up there but then a miracle happened and the sun came out- how wonderful it felt to be outdoors and warm for a change!
We explored the lower area before heading up one of the trails to the Lake Skomakerdiket, about a 400m walk which takes on average 10-15 minutes. There were not too many people headed this way as the weekend crowd was mostly families with young kids so we had some peace and quiet to enjoy ourselves!
We got back from the Lake and just sat for a while, soaking in the sun and views with a hot drink in hand before starting our walk down.
The walk down to the city center is about 3km and takes around 45 minutes. It is a well maintained path and the views are lovely. We crossed many brave souls walking up with friends and family and for a second I thought we should have done it too- but only for a second!!
Once back down we just wandered about enjoying our last day in this charming city, before heading back to the hotel to pack for our early morning flight home....the much awaited vacation to Norway was over and it had been even more wonderful than we'd imagined.
I would love to go back someday and explore the many parts of Norway we had missed, but this time I'd opt for spring/ summer as I feel it would be an entirely different but equally rewarding experience then.
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