This trip to Vietnam was taken with my 78 year old mom so was tailored to be more relaxing than my other trips. In 10 days we visited Hanoi, Ha Long Bay, Da Nang and Hoi An.
All tours and trips were done with pre booked private cars and Grab taxis for extra comfort and although it sounds expensive it really was not too bad at all- the Vietnam Dong is not a strong currency and the conversion rates from most countries is excellent.
Day 1
We took a direct flight from Chiang Mai, Thailand to Hanoi and reached our hotel by early afternoon. After a bit of relaxation and some food at the hotel's rooftop bar, we ventured out for a walk to explore the area around us.
As luck would have it the famous train street of the old quarter of Hanoi was just a five minute walk from the hotel and we headed there to see what all the fuss was about.
Tip- Ask your hotel to check the day's train timings to enjoy the full experience.
What a cool place it turned out to be! Great atmosphere, loads of bars, cafes and restaurants flanking the tracks and mostly full of tourists here to enjoy the vibe.
We sat at one of the cafes to wait for the train and enjoyed our first local coffee- the egg coffee!
When it was time for the train to arrive there was a sudden bustling of activity as people were moved off the tracks and corralled onto the sides, with strict instructions to stay within the designated areas. When the train came through I realized why- it was a huge train going at high speed, barely an arms length from us! What a rush we felt- truly exhilarating!
After that it was off to the hotel and bed before the adventures of the next day.
Day 2 and 3
The much anticipated Ha Long Bay cruise! I must confess we splurged on this one and it was amazing!
We were picked up by luxury van from our hotel, which then collected a few more passengers, before heading out to the cruise terminal. This journey takes around two and a half hours and can be longer depending on traffic. There are a couple of halts for food and facilities but it did feel like a long ride- not sure how day trippers manage.
Once we got to the docks, we checked in with our cruise personnel and sat in the waiting area to board the smaller feeder boat. There were boats boarding directly from the docks but ours was too large to be so close. The feeder boat took about 30 minutes to get to the main boat but we hardly felt it as we were too focused on the beautiful bay area.
Once on the main boat, after a fabulous welcome with music and rose petals, it was a fancy lunch with stunning views as we set sail.
Post lunch we checked into our lovely cabin and were on the balcony when an enterprising woman come alongside the boat in a long tail boat selling beers, wine, snacks and trinkets! Despite having carried our own I just had to buy a few local beers for the novelty of it!!
I spent the afternoon kayaking around the area near us before heading to the heated onboard mini pool with mum for some chill time!
Sunset came with the surprise of free drone photography for guests on the top deck before a decent BBQ dinner. Weather was perfect and it was a lovely evening.
We were meant to go on the early morning off shore cave tour but I was horribly sick with high fever and was confined to the cabin all day....
Our personal butler did bring me food when mom requested and everyone was very helpful.
Next morning I felt a bit better and determined not to miss any more, joined the trip to Bat Island and a small beach. I wont lie- I felt miserable most of the time and it wasn't really anything outstanding. Should have stayed on board and enjoyed the views instead!
After early lunch it was time to go back to Hanoi reversing the steps we'd taken to get here.
If I visit again I'd probably just do 1 night and spend the entire time on the ship simply taking in the views and enjoying the experience.
After drop off at our hotel, we checked in and relaxed till the evening before heading out to the Hoan Kiem Lake area.
A popular spot amongst locals and tourists alike it was bustling with people, especially near the food stalls and the famous Huc Bridge, but as we walked around the lake( about 1.8km) the crowds thinned out and it was a very relaxing stroll.
We stopped for some food and a ice cream on our way before heading back to the hotel.
Day 4
Today I'd booked a private car and driver-cum-guide to visit the Ninh Bin province, within which lies the Tràng An Scenic Landscape Complex UNESCO World Heritage site.
We left the hotel at 8am after breakfast and with a couple of toilet breaks we reached the famous Bich Dong Pagoda, considered a symbol of the Tam Coc area we were in, by 1030am.
The setting was beautiful and although it takes a bit of climbing to get to the mountainside pagoda, take it slow and go-its worth the effort and even my 78 year old mom managed it !
There is a smaller pagoda further up which I went to alone- steeper steps and not that much to see- although I did enjoy the mountain goats on the hillside!
After the pagoda we stopped for lunch at a local restaurant nearby at Tam Coc.
Tam Coc is one of two places from where you can start the boat tours famous in this area. Less crowded with more scenic beauty, especially during rice season, as compared to Trang An which is famous for the numerous caves it goes through. Trang An is a much longer boat route and is much busier but I wanted to experience the longest cave tunnel in this region so Trang An was our destination.
Fun fact- the older boatpeople prefer to row using their feet but the government has banned this (not sure why?) but you can catch the occasional rebel here if you look carefully! Its actually quite amazing!
Trang An was about 20 minutes drive from Tam Coc and thank goodness we had our guide who organized the boat and tickets using his sources or else we would have taken much longer to figure out the system and head out.
Being a weekend the crowds were large but after the initial boarding and setting off, the distance between boats increased and it didn't feel that crowded at all. The first section of the river is common to everyone post which there is a split- shorter distance goes left and longer one goes right- price is same for both- just depends how long you have and how much you enjoy boat rides.
We off course went right, taking the longer route to experience the longest cave!
The scenery all around was breathtaking and even sudden downpours couldn't dampen our spirits! There are 3 stops to visit temples and use the facilities if needed apart from the many tunnels you go through- some large and some tiny and requiring laying flat! You also go past the abandoned King Kong skull island location- no visitors allowed at it is supposedly overrun by snakes now.
A brilliant 3 hours on the water but with now aching backs we were glad to return to the car!
Last stop of the day was a quick visit to the ancient capital of Hoa Lu, the first ancient capital of Vietnam after its independence from China. For being such an important site, I felt it to be quite neglected and in need of some loving restoration.
By now we were quite tired and ready for the long drive back home to our hotel and bed!
Ninh Binh had exceeded our expectations and I'd highly recommend making the trip to anyone visiting Hanoi!
Day 5
Today we had planned an easier day just to do the Hanoi city highlights. Although we'd booked a car for 8 hours, we managed to see everything we wanted to in less than five!
Having a car with driver was perfect as he dropped us exactly where we wanted to go and picked us up from the most convenient locations- no waiting around for large tour groups on busses meant we were very efficient in our sightseeing!
Photo essay of our visited spots!
Tran Quoc Pagoda- oldest Buddhist temple in Hanoi located on a tiny island near the West Lake.
Ho Chi Minh Minh's Mausoleum Complex consisting of:
Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum -the resting place of Vietnamese revolutionary leader and President Ho Chi Minh. You can buy tickets to enter but we just saw it from the outside.
Presidential Palace -President Ho Chi Minh worked in this palace from 1954 until his death in 1969. You cannot enter but it's beautiful from the outside too.
The residences of Ho Chi Minh - Uncle Ho's garage and house where he lived and worked from.
The Carp Pond and gardens- story has it every morning Uncle Ho used to enjoy feeding the fish calling them fish by clapping his hands -and they would come !
One Pillar Pagoda- I learnt its story online so will just add a clip as I found it interesting!
"According to the legend, Quan Am, goddess of mercy, appeared in a dream to the king, who had no male descendant. Sitting on a lotus flower, she gave him a boy. Soon after, a young peasant girl, whom he had made his favorite and whom he married, gave him an heir. As a token of his gratitude, he had the lotus flower pagodon erected in the middle of the pond. It was the central sanctuary of a vast complex of temples, gardens, pavilions and ponds of which nothing remains.
The pagoda, destroyed in 1954 by the French, was rebuilt in 1959 by Uncle Ho. The concrete pillar is 4m high and 1.25m in diameter. The temple sheltering the statue of Quan Am measures 4x4m."
There is also a museum on the premises but we did not visit it.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum with guard, Presidential Palace and Ho Chi Minh Residences, One pillar Pagoda
A fair bit of walking to see everything but worth the effort.
The Temple of Literature/ Quoc Tu Giam - This is the first university complex in Vietnam. Not only is it a cultural and historical site, it is also where many students come to pray for luck in their upcoming exams and studies.
The most important relics here are the two rows of stone stelae on tortoise shaped pedestals. They are on either side of the square pool in the third courtyard known as the "Well of Heavenly Brilliance". They record the names of the successful candidates in the 82 mandarin exams held between1442 and 1779. This rigorous examination system which involved numerous stages over several months helped the king select who would become "mandarins" or councilors and guide him in governing the realm.
St. Joseph's Cathedral - the oldest church in Hanoi. It was closed for entry when we went so only saw it from the outside. Very similar look to the famous Notre Dame in Paris and a classic example of gothic architecture in Vietnam. Grand and imposing building for sure.
Surrounded by quaint cafes and restaurants, it was my favorite area in Hanoi. I only wish I'd had more time for a coffee and snack at a few of the coffeeshops - will do it next time for sure!
I did take an hour for a quick walk around the Cathedral area and its surroundings while mom rested and even found a delicious snack on the way!!
LUNCH!
We had planned our day around lunch as I wanted to get to a particular place for Pho which didn't take reservations- timing was crucial to beat the lunch crowds!
It was a place visited by Barack Obama and Anthony Bourdain so the belief was it would be AMAZING pho!
Unfortunately I was disappointed. Although the protein was delicious, the sweet tasting pho was underwhelming to me- I had had better in many places:( Still it was probably the closest I'd get to Obama and Bourdain so all was not lost!
Day 6
With a free day in hand we decided to join a half day incense factory and hat making tour.
The incense factory tour was more about taking way too many photos which got tedious, while the hat village was smaller and a bit more interesting. In both places you could see great human skill and tedious hard work but on the whole very touristy and staged. Definitely not a must in my opinion, but if you have extra time then its an option.
Day 7
Today we were off to Da Nang and spent the daytime just relaxing at the hotel before heading to the airport.
We landed in Da Nang quite late and in heavy rain so called it a night after gorging on some amenities we had in the room!
Day 8
Initially this was the day we had planned to go to Bana Hills with our guide/driver but the weather was miserable and he said we'd see nothing and we should reschedule which we did- luckily we had enough days!
Weather is unpredictable so flexibility is key. Our day ended up being not too bad- we visited a local market which was nothing special and totally avoidable and did some forgettable sightseeing but the best part was a visit to the beach in the evening when the skies cleared up! We were also lucky to have an amazing view from our balcony so it worked out okay!
NB. the entire coast seemed filled with hotels of all kinds and brands so it wouldn't be hard to get a room with fantastic views and quick beach access.
Day 9
Today we were off to Hoi An- an ancient town about and hour away from Da Nang and today an UNESCO World Heritage Center.
Most visitors are day trippers but I have a secret love for quaint places and needed extra time to explore so we were going to stay overnight.
After checking in to our very central hotel our first stop was a tailor shop. Hoi An is famous for its tailoring and shoes and you can get fantastic bespoke clothing and footwear custom made in anywhere from 2 hours to a day! Good quality and reasonably priced, I must confess to buying way more than I needed!!
Clothing order placed, it was time to head to the main riverside area.
Flanked on both side by numerous bars, restaurant and shops this area is a must visit. At night it transforms into a little fairytale scene with lanterns galore and a party atmosphere!
We had a drink overlooking the river before heading out and getting on a boat from which to enjoy the views of the town. This is a must do activity and even though its very busy and touristy, it really was wonderful!
After the boat ride we strolled around a bit before walking back to the hotel for a good nights sleep.
Day 10
I woke up early while mom rested and after a quick breakfast went out to explore Hoi An as it began waking up for the day. I ventured into little alleys and streets, saw beautiful bridges, watched as the locals went about work and discovered the most amazing coffee shops! It reinforced my belief that the best way to experience any city is to just walk, walk and walk!
Hoi An was almost more beautiful in the daytime than it was at night with the added benefit of no crowds!
As you can tell I loved loved loved the buildings with their charming ochre yellow facades!
My favorite coffee shop which I went to twice for their almost too pretty to drink salted coffee is one I definitely recommend. Comes in hot or cold and they were nice enough to allow me to take a video of the art! I even bought packets of the coffee and coffee filters for my kids here!
I could have wandered for hours but needed to get back to the hotel to checkout before heading out for our bamboo basket boat tour booked through the hotel.
We were picked up from the hotel in a mini van with some other guests from the area and taken to Cam Thanh village for the activity. After some light refreshments it was onto the "baskets" for a trip around the area. On the way you can, for an extra charge, transfer to a special basket for the "rock and roll" experience as I call it and off course I had to do it even though no one wanted to join me! Looked easy enough but it was quite the dizzying and exhilarating experience and I'm glad mom hadn't joined me!!
A fun trip for sure and one of the most recommended things to do from Hoi An!
Back to the hotel then and a quick trip to collect our clothes from the tailor after an awesome Banh Mi lunch. The Banh Mi Queen was recommended by several locals we asked and was absolutely amazing!
As we sat in the car back to Da Nang I was so glad we'd spent the night in Hoi An. I loved the place and would happily go back again and explore some more!
In the evening back in Da Nan, despite the drizzle, we ventured out to see the famous fire breathing Dragon Bridge. It was a unique experience and if you can go see it, do, but if not it's not a tragedy!
Day 11
Our last full day in DaNang and Vietnam before we headed back home. It was finally time for our rescheduled trip to Ba Na Hills!
Again wanting to take things easy, we had opted for a private car and driver although Ubers are also available for the trip.
It was a lovely clear day and I was glad we had rescheduled!
Danang to Ba Na was less than an hours drive. Once there you board a buggy from the parking area to get to the ticket offices and start point.
It's then a lovely cable car ride to the top to view the attractions.
We went up to the Golden Hands Bridge station first and fought average crowds to see the area. No doubt nice but the birds eye view from a drone captures the bridge best so don't expect to see what Instagram shows you!! Good thing it was our first stop as apparently it gets so crowded later you can barely move!
Ticket area and entrance
Cable Car with a glimpse of the Golden Hands
After the bridge we walked around the gardens in the area. Please note that there are inclines and steps as well as a fair bit of walking so come prepared and take it slow!
From here to the next hill is another short cable car ride. The second area is full of restaurants, a huge brewery, 2 castles with 3D movies, a couple of hotels and some shops. We enjoyed a leisurely exploration and watched both 3 D movies which were surprisingly good! We also used out free coupons for some beer at the brewery and ate the yummiest Street food called the Banh Ran- best eaten hot and fresh, it was delicious!!
Having visited everything we wanted to it was time to head back down to the car park via a third cable car which afforded us some unexpected and lovely views of a waterfall!
Once back down we located our driver and headed back to our hotel.
Ba Na hills was a fun day out- a totally man made and touristy attraction but done beautifully to a grand scale and worth a visit for sure!
As we sat on our balcony over a glass of wine in the evening, mom and I reflected on our long Vietnam trip and consensus was we had both loved every moment of it.
Vietnam has so much to offer and we had barely scratched the surface. Hopefully there will be another trip in the near future to see some of what we had missed but for now it was thank you Vietnam for a wonderful adventure!!
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